ALUN-ALUN KIDUL
The Flickering Palace's Backyard At Night
Jl. Alun-Alun Kidul Yogyakarta, Indonesia
Alun-alun (note: correct orthography hyphenated but occurs occasionally without, also found as aloen-aloen, aloon aloon, and erroneously alon-alon) is a Javanese architectural term for the large central open lawnsquares common to villages, towns and cities in Indonesia.
Commonly, alun-alun in modern-day Indonesia refers only to the two large open squares of kraton palace compounds.
Each kraton has two alun-alun: the most important and northern alun-alun lor and the less important and commonly smaller southern alun-alun kidul. The court of Pakubuwana in Surakarta is unique as it incorporates thealun-alun kidul within the defensive wall of the kraton proper.
The alun-alun lor also historically functioned for a place for public corporal punishments and executions. Condemned criminals were publicly executed by krissing (using a keris to stab the condemned from the left shoulder blade downward into the heart) beside the enclosed banyan trees of the alun-alun lor. For especially heinous criminals, most especially traitors and viciousbrigands the condemned's head would be impaled on a pike as a macabre public warning.
Historical Function
The alun-alun lor functioned and continues to function as centre for public spectacles, court celebrations and general non-court entertainment. The Javanese festivals of Garebeganan and Sekaten great fairs were held here, as they are still held today, with the spectacle of huge mountains of rice exiting the kraton for blessings at the mosque and distributed to the people in the alun-alun lor. Occasionally a social and entertainment spectacle of a tiger and buffalo fight wold be held, though from Sultan Hamengkubawana VII onward these were rare, as the Yogyakarta court tigers were incredibly useful for public sanitation as they were fed a diet of stray dogs.
The alun-alun lor was the only place where the Sultan would conduct dialogue with his people, and functioned to show his humanity and humility.
The alun-lun kidul was more of a generic ground, principally for everyday mustering troops or servants and for exiting officials, servants and workers attending to mundane everyday business.
Javanese traditional architecture holds a principle known as Catur Gatra Tunggal (catur: Javanese for "four";gatra: Javanese for "element"; tunggal: Javanese for "single/integrated"), which means "four elements in one single integrity". The principle is manifested in the architecture of Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat King's Palace, which comprises a palace, a mosque, a city square, and a traditional market. Each of the place functions as the center of authority, prayer and worship, social activities, and economic activities respectively. Yogyakarta has two city squares one located in front of the palace, known as Alun-Alun Utara (alun-alun lor/Northern City Square), while the other one is located behind the palace and is known as Alun-Alun Selatan (alun-alun kidul/Southern City Square). The King's Palace is itself situated at a spot along the imaginary line connecting Mount Merapi, the King's Palace, and Parangtritis Beach.
he backyard of the king's palace is a place full of stories. Two of the folklores most identified with the Southern city square is its establishment; the city square was built to make the back side of the palace looks a lot like the front yard so that it doesn't stand backing the Southern Sea which is believed to be guarded by the Queen of the Southern Sea, who is said to have a mystical connection with the King of Mataram. The second story is the myth of walking pass the twin banyan trees planted on the city square, with eyes blindfolded. The game is known as masangin, which stands for "masuk dua beringin" (entering two banyan trees).
The rule of the game is very simple; we would only need to be blindfolded then walk straight about 20 m from the front of Sasono Hinggil (Javanese words, literally translated as Higher Place/Ground) and pass through between the ringin kurung (two banyan trees planted on the center of the city square). That's all. But as you come to see, it is not as easy as it seems. Many people have tried to walk straight, but in fact they happened to take the wrong direction, turning their path far from the destination. Certainly, walking with eyes blindfolded is far harder than with eyes open and objects visible. In broader understanding, the game reflects a message that we have to work hard and keep our heart pure to achieve our destination.
Masangin originated from a ritual known as topo bisu (silent asceticism) mubeng beteng (around the fort) on 1 Suro eve, which would be completed by walking pass the ringin kurung. It is believed that the two banyan trees hold a mythical rajah (traditional tattoo) which functions to keep the King's Palace off any perils. It is also believed that only those having pure hearts and not bearing evil intentions can walk pass the banyan trees. To try the game, we can rent a blindfold for Rp 5,000. Apart from the myth, the game has been the Southern city square's icon which gives financial benefits for the sellers around the city square.
There are many other things we can do in the Southern city square. Formerly used by the kingdom's army to work out, the place has now transformed into a public space flocked by visitors; people of all communities and ages are gathering here. In the evening, started at about 5 pm, parents take their children to play around, running all the way chasing the flying bubbles from liquid soap blown by the sellers, or shouting loudly as if calling out the various kites above the sky. Quite at the pavement, numerous sellers are getting ready and spreading out their mats. Later at night, the atmosphere starts to change; the young children have gone home, and it's time for the teenagers to spend their night over at the city square. The darker the night, the higher the crowd. Tandem bicycles and lighted odong-odong become the favorite objects. We can drive around the city square on tandem bicycle for Rp 15,000, or by renting odong-odong for Rp 30,000 which can accommodate up to six persons. While doing sport by riding on the bicycle or odong-odong, we can also feel another sensation while riding on it cross the crowded street.
Tired of playing, we can then take a break and sit relaxed on the mats while ordering snacks. We suggest you order roasted corns in various flavor options along with wedang ronde which offers the taste of warm ginger. Need more? Just order toasted bread and wedang bajigur. Wedang ronde and bajigur, popular beverages in Yogyakarta, are just perfect to enjoy around the area which formerly had been the heart of Mataram Kingdom. The Southern city square is not a quiet place where you can find tranquility, but its cheerful aura will definitely amuse you. If you come around at the second week in month, you will be able to watch a shadow puppet performance held at Sasono Hinggil Dwi Abad. However, you will need to get all prepared since the show is held all night long. Wanna give it a try?
No comments:
Post a Comment